On one of my first trips to Italy, my husband and I were invited to a friend’s home for dinner.
When I asked what time we should come by, she smiled and said, “Verso le 21:00.”
That’s military time for 9:00 pm.
Nine? I remember staring at her, thinking, “You’re kidding, right?”
Back home, nine o’clock is when I’d be in pajamas, maybe half-asleep.
At first, I felt confused and even a bit annoyed. It seemed rude to expect dinner so late.
But I soon realized it wasn’t personal. It was cultural.
Let’s look at what to expect, why it works this way, and how you can plan your meals (and your mindset) to make the most of it.
When Dinner Starts in Italy
Whether gathering at home with family or dining out, dinner time in Italy varies by region:
- Northern Italy (e.g., Milan, Turin, Verona): 7:30 or 8 p.m.
- Central Italy (e.g., Florence, Rome): 8:00 or 8:30 p.m.
- Southern Italy (e.g., Naples, Sicily, Puglia): Can start as late as 9 or even 10 p.m.
If you’re used to sitting down for dinner at 6 p.m. or earlier, these times will feel surprising.
Why Dinner Happens Later in Italy
So why do Italians eat dinner so late? There are a few simple reasons:
The climate. Especially in summer, it’s too hot to eat a heavy meal early. People wait for the evening and cooler temperatures to enjoy food.
Social habits. Dinner in Italy isn’t just a meal, it’s a ritual. Time to catch up with family, talk with friends, relax, and reconnect.
Work and the pausa. Many people enjoy a long lunch and then take a mid-afternoon break (the pausa), which means their evening begins later. That naturally pushes dinner time later, too.
Tradition. In pre-industrial Italy, people worked in the fields all day and only gathered for their main meal after sunset. That pattern stuck, even after industrialization.
How to Adapt as a Traveler
If you’re used to eating early, these late dinner hours can throw you off.
Here’s how to roll with it — and even enjoy it.
Eat a bigger lunch. Italians often treat lunch as the main meal of the day and will enjoy several courses. Eat a more substantial meal if you’re not planning dinner until much later.
Enjoy aperitivo. The term “aperitivo” comes from the Latin aperire, meaning “to open,” giving a hint to its purpose: to open the appetite and signal the transition from the workday to the evening meal.
This is how Italians will bridge the long gap between lunch and late dinner.
Between 6 and 8 p.m., bars offer drinks with small bites — olives, nuts, a few crostini.
Treat yourself to the experience at a local bar. Enjoy an Aperol spritz or a glass of wine. Immerse yourself in the local social scene.
Know your options. Traveling with kids or anyone who needs an earlier mealtime? You will find restaurants that open before 7 p.m., but they usually cater to tourists. The food might not be great but sometimes, that’s a trade-off worth making if a late night dinner isn’t your style.
Slow down. Late dinners are a gift. No rush. No second seating. Once you have a table, you can linger as long as you like.
Respect the culture. Try not to complain about the hours. This is how things work here, and stepping into that rhythm is part of the experience.
Embracing the Late Dinner
If you’re planning to eat out in Italy, know that restaurants work differently than what you might be used to.
There is usually one seating for the night. Once you sit down, that table is yours until you leave. Staff won’t turn it over for someone else.
That means reservations are a big deal. If you can, always make a reservation, even for a casual place.
And if your plans change, be sure to call or stop by to cancel. Restaurants are holding that table just for you the entire night — if you don’t show up, it can really throw off their evening.
If you haven’t made a reservation, don’t be surprised if you see empty tables when the doors open but still get turned away. Those tables are spoken for, sometimes by guests arriving hours later.
Dinner here is slow and relaxed.
If you come in with that mindset, you’ll enjoy it a lot more — and avoid frustration.
Conclusion
Dinner time in Italy is later than you might expect — usually between 7:30 and 10 p.m. depending on where you are.
Lunch is the main meal of the day, with time to rest afterward, so dinner becomes a slower, social event. Italians don’t rush through it, and neither should you.
Restaurants usually have one seating per night, so make a reservation and cancel if you can’t make it — they’re holding that table just for you.
If you see empty tables, know they’re likely reserved for later guests. Respecting these rhythms will help you feel less frustrated and more connected to how people in Italy really live, making your trip smoother and more enjoyable.
FAQ About Dinner Time in Italy
Why do Italians eat dinner so late?
They follow a different daily rhythm: light breakfast, big lunch, afternoon rest, then a relaxed dinner later in the evening. The cooler evening hours and social traditions make late dinners normal.
Do restaurants in Italy have multiple dinner seatings?
No. Most restaurants plan for one seating. Once you book a table, it’s yours all night.
How do Italians eat so late with kids?
Many Italian kids adapt to the later schedule, having a bigger lunch and a snack with their parents before dinner.
Can tourists find places to eat earlier?
Yes — tourist-focused restaurants often open earlier, around 6 or 7 p.m., but the food may be less authentic.
Should I make a reservation?
Yes. Always. And if you change plans, cancel — they are holding your table for the entire night.
Why do they refuse me even when the place looks empty?
Those empty tables are reserved for later diners. It’s a normal part of Italian restaurant culture.
Related Posts:
• What’s The Difference Between a Trattoria, Osteria, Enoteca and Ristorante?
• The Coperto in Italy (and How to Understand Your Restaurant Bill)
• Tipping In Italy For Travelers
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